What You’re Really Paying For—And the Wines You Were Never Meant to Taste It begins, as most things in Europe do, quietly. By Claude Camilleri - Edited and adapted by VIVANT A vineyard you will likely never visit. Fifteen hectares in the Rhône, perhaps, or a family estate in the Languedoc. Third generation. Organic, maybe. The kind of place where the rows are known by memory, not by map, and where a bad frost in April can undo a year’s work before the season has properly be