Few ingredients define the kitchen the way a tomato does. But in the summer, it becomes something more. To me, the tomato is a measure of a good summer—the simplest way to know if you’ve caught the season at the right moment. A good tomato means there was enough sun and enough time. It means something was grown close enough to be picked when it was ready, and that someone waited for just the right moment. People and nature are synchronized, and all is right in the world. A