Let’s face it. Regardless of where you come from, there really is no place like home. And, as a travel journalist I’ve found myself in more than a few situations where I could’ve really used a pair of ruby slippers. In these times, I’ve found comfort in such amenities offered by properties like the ones within The InterContinental Hotels Group portfolio. Owned by the San Francisco-based luxury chain, Kimpton Tryon Park Hotel in Uptown Charlotte is where you’ll find a restaurant I continue to crave well beyond my last trip to the Queen City.
Angeline’s is one of those places that checks all the boxes when googling “best restaurants” in a new city you’ve never been. And, while Angeline’s is still fairly new to Charlotte’s culinary landscape, you’ll feel as if she’s been here all along.
Opening the fall of 2017, Angeline’s Church Street address is convenient to many area attractions but is really the main event. Walking past the extensive wine collection encased in glass, you’ll notice many other design elements like the floor to ceiling windows, the marble topped bar and edison light fixtures which help the space feel light without the weight its rich wood accents often detail.
Inspired by some of the finest tratorrias, Angeline’s Italian menu uses regional ingredients when appropriate and features a lineup of small plates, wood-fired pizzas, pastas and entrees of which many could easily be shared. Still, you may want to keep every last bite for yourself.
One of the very few negative reviews I found when googling this urban gem was a complaint about portion sizes. Hey, us Southerners often like our healthy sized plates. Indeed, the servings aren’t what you might find at one of those chains that start every meal out with garlic knots and salad. In full disclosure, those joints have their place and are truly a guilty pleasure for me. But, Angelines’s “place” is under an entirely different zip code and should be considered as such.
Executive Chef Robert Hoffman’s career has followed the tenets of not only molecular gastronomy, but also butchery and charcuterie. But, if you’re thinking foams and schmears, think again. Hoffman’s larder positions Angeline’s for the adventuresome type just as much as a meat and tater sort of guest.
Starting with whipped ricotta served with wood fired sourdough, lavender honey, and pistachios, I instantly knew I was in for a real treat. The bread’s char cut through the ricotta’s velvety texture. The honey’s sweet floral notes balanced the savory aperitivo with a pistachio crunch for good measure. It’s one of those dishes I’ll feel cheated if I don’t savor upon my next visit. And, from what my server, Heather, says this is a thing for most who try it. As it turns out, stellar service is also a thing here.
I’m a sucker for a menu offering octopus. So, the charred spanish octopus with eggplant caponata and romesco sauce was a no brainer. Hoffman gets to play with his food a little on this one with the dab of this and a drizzle of that. While I could’ve used a bit more octopus to sop up those divine sauces, the smoky flavors stood up to my glass of Super Tuscan wine, a blend you don’t always see on by-the-glass menus.
Another sure bet for my Super Tuscan pairing was the grilled pork chop served with chive risotto and broccoli rabe dressed with pickled swiss chard stems and cherry glace. But, if you simply can’t resist the obvious go ahead and indulge in the 21 day dry-aged ribeye.
If you’re on a budget and time is of the essence, hit the sides heavy. At just $8, each plate is plenty for two people to share a few and feel like they’ve actually splurged. Just make sure to get the Brussels sprouts with saba and parmesan. If you don’t already have saba in your personal pantry, this is the perfect time to understand why you should. Balsamic’s granddaddy, this un-aged vinegar is cooked down grape musk that’s rounder and sweeter at half the price.
As for desserts, I’ve never understood why someone would say they don’t need it. No one needs dessert. Pair the Bomboloni with a pour of Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco for a classic Romagna finish and thank me later.
Open every day of the week, Angeline’s breakfast through late night pizza is definitely now on heavy rotation for my Charlotte stops. Next time I’m in town, I plan on hitting Angeline’s sister hang up at the rooftop lounge, Merchant & Trade, for cocktails. Who’s in?
