The First Feast

Written by Melissa Corbin

‘ Tis the season to give thanks. Imagining what that first Thanksgiving must have been like for all in attendance, both the takers and the givers, they probably were tired, hungry, and needed a moment of truce. Recounted by attendee Edward Winslow, there were 90 Native Americans and 50 Pilgrims at that first Thanksgiving that lasted three days in October 1621. The indigenous menu featured ingredients such as wild turkey, cranberries, and seafood (primarily clams and oysters.)

It ’ s no secret this year has been more of a taker than a giver. We are in desperate need of a moment of peace. It ’ s times like these when a grateful heart is most useful. To glean what we can from turmoil, however deep we must dig, that ’ s where the healing truly begins. In planning this year ’ s Thanksgiving feast, a bounty of seafood available at your fingertips is a good place to start giving thanks, and a few coastal chefs have a thing or two to say about it.

The Kimpton Vero Beach Hotel and Spa in Florida is home to two restaurants, Cobalt Restaurant and Heaton ’ s Reef, where Executive Chef Winston Guerrero recently traded in his Rhode Island snow days for beach days. A Barranquilla, Colombia native, he ’ s always felt compelled to give back in charitable ways. Through the African Alliance of Rhode Island, Winston taught classes on how to use locally grown African and Latino ingredients to cook healthy meals, and undoubtedly is finding his way to now plug into his new community. For Thanksgiving, he suggests considering a Floridian favorite, Pompano. He says, “ The fish is firm but finely flaked with a sweet, mild flavor. The flesh is pearly white, with a moderate fat content, and cooks up white. The fish is delicious and versatile, allowing it to be cooked and served in a wide variety of ways.” When selecting Pompano at the store or fish market, Guerrero recommends checking “ the structure (or grain) of the flesh, to make sure it ’ s smooth and intact, not broken or flaky. And, be sure the flesh feels and smells clean.”

Pompano & Crab Roulade

**Wash hands. Thoroughly clean/sanitize your utensils, equipment and work surfaces. **

Ingredients:

For the crab

• 1 lb super lump pasteurized crab meat; not drained
  
• 1/2 tsp salt & pepper
  
• 1 tsp Old Bay
  
• ¾ c panko breadcrumbs
  
• 1 lemon squeezed for its juice
  
• ¾ c mayonnaise
  

1 filet of Pompano de-boned skin on or off (I prefer the skin on)

½ lemon

1 tbsp butter

Method of Preparation for Crab

1. Preheat oven to 400° F
   
2. Place crab meat in a large stainless steel bowl over an ice bath. Using gloved hands very carefully break apart the crab meat removing any shells or cartilage.
   
3. Add the remaining ingredients.
   
4. Gently mix the ingredients together using "soft" hands. You do not want to break up the large crab pieces.
   
5. Make sure Pompano filet has no bones.
   
6. Lay the Pompano flat, skin side down, and on flat surface. Season with salt and pepper.
   
7. Place crab mixture on Pompano and roll, (Be careful not to put too much or filling will fall out when rolling.)
   
8. I like to use a toothpick or a bamboo stick to secure together. You can also tie with butcher ’ s twine.
   
9. Place roulade on a sheet pan or oven pan and cook for 10 min. Raise the temperature to 450°F and cook for 5 more minutes.
   
10. Pull out of the oven and let it rest
    
11. While it ’ s resting, squeeze ½ lemon on the fish and 1 tbsp of butter and let it naturally melt. This with its natural juices will be your sauce.
    

This dish can be served with any of your favorite sides. We sometimes serve it with toasted farro and julienne power vegetables.

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A Wilmington, North Carolina native, a James Beard Finalist for best Southeast Chef and featured on Bravo TV ’ s Top Chef (season 9) o wner and chef, Keith Rhodes opened Catch Restaurant in 2006 in hopes that diners would catch his passion for North Carolina seafood. His menu features dishes that highlight seasonal flavors that are sourced from organic growers and local fisheries that support sustainable practices. He says, “ Oysters are a perfect shellfish for holiday occasions that represent eastern North Carolina, whether stewed, roasted, grilled, fried or baked, they are totally customizable and have such a good flavor.” When selecting oysters, Rhodes encourages you to try to always pick local oysters, “ They should always be cold, If buying in the shell, shells should be fully cleaned, no mud. Shells should be closed and the oyster when held, should smell like ocean water.” Three Little Spats, Nsea, Middle Sound Mariculture and Carolina Mariculture are some of his top local, farm-raised choices, along with wild-caught Stump Sound oysters. Chef Rhodes sends his best Thanksgiving wishes, “ Always live to eat, and remember good food equals good times.”

CATCH DIRTY SOUTH OYSTERS

Ingredients

12 shucked oysters on the half shell

½ cups seasoned/cooked collards or spinach

4 slices bacon

1 c pimento cheese

½ c Parmesan cheese

1 c seasoned bread crumbs

Method

1. Preheat oven to 375° F
   
2. Cut each slice of bacon into 3/4 pieces. (depending on size of bacon slice)
   
3. Stack oysters with a tablespoon of greens on each oyster, then add a half tablespoon of pimento cheese on top, then a piece of bacon.
   
4. Top with 1 tsp of bread crumbs and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
   
5. On a baking tray, crinkle a sheet of foil and pull back out over pan. Foil should be kind of crinkled so you can place each oyster on foil with light pressure. The foil acts as a brace so the oysters don ’ t tip over.
   
6. Bake until bubbly on top rack. (about 5-10 minutes)
   
7. Remove let rest for a few minutes, shells are really hot and enjoy.
   

Chef Steven del Lima of New Bedford, Massachusetts has contributed to the backbone of New York ’ s culinary scene since the early 90s. His latest venture slated to open this fall, Hooks and Chops, in Commack, New York puts his spin on a traditional steakhouse, as a seafood chophouse where he says, “ I'm grateful to still have the opportunity to be able to open Hooks & Chops during a pandemic.” Being on Long Island and having the accessibility of all the fresh seafood, del Lima finds great inspiration, “ I love using local ingredients as much as possible on my menus and I enjoy supporting local businesses as much as possible.” This time of year, he enjoys working with local oysters and yellowfin tuna from Montauk. When storing oysters at home, del Lima advises refrigerating them in a mesh bag, or an open container at 33-37 °F covered with a damp towel for up to 5 days, but that their flavor is best when eaten within 24 hours of purchase. When it comes to tuna, he says, “ Shop with your eyes and your nose. Appearance and odor are very important when selecting tuna. Fresh tuna is moist in appearance, but not overly wet. It should also be firm, shiny and uniform in color. Tuna that looks dry, flaky or is brown on the edges is most likely not fresh.”

Hooks and Chops Surf-n-Surf Appetizer

Ingredients

3 each Semolina dusted Peconic Bay Oysters, cleaned, shucked and soaked in b uttermilk, to cover oysters

3 oz. Charred Yellowfin Tuna, pre-charred, chilled, and sliced lengthwise

Hickory Seasoning for Tuna, enough to dust

6 Tbsp Semolina Dust

2 Tbsp Asian Pear Salsa

1 oz. Wasabi Aioli

1 oz. Maple-Soy Glaze

Asian Pear Relish

1/4 each Asian pear, small dice

1 Tbsp scallions, chopped

1 Tbsp red bell pepper, small dice

1/3 tsp ginger paste

Salt and Pepper to taste

1 tsp sesame oil

3/4 oz. rice wine vinegar

2/3 tsp honey

1/4 tsp cilantro, washed & chopped

Maple-Soy Glaze

1/4 bunch scallions, chopped

1/4 Tbsp garlic, chopped

1/4 Tbsp ginger paste

1/4 c lite soy sauce

1/8 c maple syrup

2 tsp rice wine vinegar

1 1/4 tsp light brown sugar

1 tsp lime juice

Wasabi Aioli

1/4 c mayonnaise

1/4 oz. light soy sauce

3/4 tsp lime juice

1/8 oz. wasabi paste

3/4 tsp ginger paste

Semolina Dust

1/4 c Durum flour

1/4 c Semolina

1/2 Tbsp granulated garlic

1/2 Tbsp granulated onion

Salt and Pepper to taste

Hickory Seasoning for Dusting the Tuna

¼ c light brown sugar

¼ c paprika

3 Tbsp black pepper

3 Tbsp kosher salt

1 Tbsp smoked hickory salt

2 tsp granulated garlic

2 tsp granulated onion

2 tsp celery seeds

1 tsp cayenne pepper

● Mix all ingredients together and place in a shaker. Dust all sides of the tuna.

Method

● In a sauce pot, sauté the scallions, garlic and ginger paste for 1-2 minutes.

● Add the brown sugar and melt.

• Add the soy sauce, maple syrup and rice wine vinegar and bring to a boil.
• Let the sauce simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lime juice at this time.

● Thicken the sauce if needed with the slurry.

● Cool and serve the sauce at room temperature.