In the recent passing of Gloria Vanderbilt, I was reminded of the influence in fashion, art and popular culture that fashion designers have as well as the importance of recognizing and remembering how they impacted the world around us. There are three designers that come to mind that have sadly passed away recently, but are held close to heart: Gloria Vanderbilt, Hubert de Givenchy and Karl Lagerfeld. The way that they marked the beginning of trends, redefined ideals, inspired creators, inscribed their dreams in everything they made, and paved a way for new eras that they created with their passion, dedication, and creativity, makes them today’s fashion pioneers, forever remembered.
Gloria Vanderbilt
Despite whatever obstacle she had to face, she always found her way back to seeing the beauty in life. Her strength and desire to live life fully never faded. Gloria’s journey to reshaping the fashion industry began when she pursued a career in modeling by appearing in Harper’s Bazaar at just 15 years old. In the 1950s, she studied art at the Art Students League. By 1952, she debuted her first solo exhibit and demonstrated her multi-faceted talent. Thanks to this, by 1968, her artwork was being adapted and licensed by Hallmark, Bloomcraft and for her own company. Her artwork was so adored that it appeared in a scarf collection for Glentex, a collaboration that was just the beginning of her work in fashion design.
She then founded her own ready-to-wear company, GV Ltd. and partnered with fashion designer Mohan Murjani. Although she was to design blouses, Vanderbilt thought about all the denim fabric in Hong Kong and the amazing things she could do with them. She then had a brilliant idea, one that changed denim and fashion forever. Designer jeans that were more form fitting were created and Gloria was the spokesperson for her Gloria Vanderbilt Jeans line, which were both unheard of at the time. She was truly a woman ahead of her time, and that was only the beginning of her journey to being the fashion icon she is remembered to being today.
"Gloria Vanderbilt was an extraordinary woman who loved life and lived it on her own terms," said her son Anderson Cooper. It was evident by the love and image her son expressed of her, that despite the troubles she faced, she always remained wonderfully optimistic. Gloria did not let her past define her and only lived in the present. She will always be remembered as a fashion icon, designer, model, actress, writer, artist, a romantic, dreamer, visionary and an optimist who said that rainbows seem to just appear and fade away, but they always come back. That’s what she loved most about life: that despite what is behind you, there is magic in yearning to discover what the next great adventure could be.
Hubert de Givenchy
It’s 1961, Fifth Avenue is empty and New York is still asleep except for this one girl who is wearing a black satin straight dress with an elegant low-cut back, black satin gloves, Oliver Goldsmith tortoiseshell sunglasses, a diamanté hair ornament in her classic bouffant up-do, and a pearl Tiffany’s necklace while standing in front of Tiffany’s, eating a croissant. That girl is Audrey Hepburn in the timeless film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” wearing the iconic dress that was made by the man that redefined modern elegance: Hubert de Givenchy.
Known for creating what is known today as the “little black dress,” he came from a heavily artistic family that inspired him to move to Paris at 17 to study at the École des Beaux-Arts . Givenchy began by designing for Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong, and Elsa Schiaparelli until he opened his own design house in 1952. He stood out by being the youngest designer (at just 25) in the progressive Parisian fashion scene as well as the most innovative among the conservative designers of the time. I believe that when he met his muse, Audrey Hepburn, on the set of Sabrina, it was the beginning of something magical; it was the beginning of a duo made in heaven, one that always inspired each other. Givenchy designed timeless pieces that created an effervescent and romantic atmosphere for every woman that wore his designs. If there was a designer that truly understood the shape and power women have, it was definitely Givenchy. He went on to design for female power figures including Sophia Loren, Grace Kelly, the Duchess of Windsor, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Empress Farah Pahlavi, Baroness Sylvia de Waldner, Countess Mona Von Bismarck, Diana Vreeland, Countess Cristiana Brandolini D’Asda, Marlene Dietrich, Princess Salimah Aga Khan, and Audrey Hepburn, of course, among many. Women like these defined what a Givenchy woman was and is: one that marks the past, lives in the present, and shapes the future.
Karl Lagerfeld
The man with a silver-haired ponytail, gloves, sunglasses and impeccable black and white suits, Karl Lagerfeld is unanimously recognized as one of the greatest pillars of fashion. He was witty, honest, outspoken, a living caricature, the protagonist of his own fantastic fiction who sewed his heart into every garment he made. Karl’s understanding of the magic that comes from the juxtaposition of classic and modern, elegance and youthfulness, timeless and innovation was witnessed under his creative direction. When he took over Chanel, it was almost as if Coco continued to breathe into every garment to shape every leap fashion took. Karl’s vision and passion is what made him and every brand he ever designed for and directed so special. How Chanel and Fendi is seen as today: two prominent houses of fashion, perfect examples of French fashion excellence, and pioneers of Haute Couture and Prêt-à-Porter, is greatly thanks to him. How much he will be missed and the power of his legacy was felt in the recent memorials and homages that were made for Karl Lagerfeld.
The most recent and heartfelt memorial occurred during Paris Men’s Fashion Week on June 20 at the Grand Palais, the place where Karl held the most magnificent and real-life fantasy fashion shows for Chanel. Over 2,500 guests attended the “Karl For Ever” memorial, including his muse Cara Delevingne, Tilda Swinton, Pharrell Williams, Bag Luhrmann, First Lady of France Brigitte Macron, Helen Mirren, Gigi Hadid, Anna Wintour, and Princess Caroline of Hanover and Charlotte Casiraghi, Grace Kelly’s daughter and granddaughter respectively. Opera director, Robert Carsen, produced the heartwarming and spectacular homage. Once you walked in, you’d be amazed by the exhibition of 56 portraits of Karl that depicted the highlights of his life and journey. You’d also see the endearing video messages of his closest friends, muses, fans, colleagues and from Karl himself that made it seem as if he were still here with us, reminding us of his hilarious wit, unfiltered honesty, and moving creativity.
Cara Delevingne then took the stage to recite a poem from one of Karl’s favorite writers, Colette, Tilda Swinton read an excerpt from Orlando by Virginia Woolf (which he also loved), and Helen Mirren made us laugh by reading excerpts from Karl’s very own memoir: “The World According to Karl.” Performances by Pharrell Williams, Chinese concert pianist Lang Lang, English violinist Charlie Siem, Jookin dancer Lil Buck, and Argentinian choreographer German Cornejo with 17 dancers who gave an amazing tango performance with an orchestra from Buenos Aires, all reminded us of Karl’s many loves and appreciation for art.
And, just as he was remembered for always handing out handwritten notes and saying his goodbyes to every single person in any production, every person that adored him was able to say their thank-yous and goodbyes.
