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Ever Andalo

Katelyn Rutt • May 15, 2022

NoDa’s newest hotspot replaces the Crepe Cellar, bringing the zest and authenticity of the Italian countryside to the Queen City.

Wedged between the cozy storefronts along N. Davidson Street, Ever Andalo—with its crawling red brick exterior and green signage—invites guests to indulge in a flavorful celebration of culture and technique. The space, Charlotte’s newest family-owned Italian restaurant concept, is spearheaded by power couple Jeff Tonidandel and Jamie Brown and had a speedy four-week buildout preceding its opening in March. Known for the success of Supperland, Haberdish, Growlers Pourhouse and Reigning Doughnuts, the duo balance the thoughtfulness of Italian cuisine and their own family ties with a vibrant, eclectic in- terior.

“The feeling inside Ever Andalo feels very curated, very select—like a jewel box,” Brown says. “And it’s kind of cool because now that we’ve replaced the windows to be wider and more open to the street, you’re somewhat on display in a little colorful glass box as you enjoy your experience of Italian food and drinks. There’s something about the glow of a bar that, to me, feels like it holds time still in the simplicity of a beautiful evening out.”

Prior to their restauranteering, the couple spent months abroad in Italy tracing Tonidandel’s heritage and experiencing all—hiking, Italian fare and new friends—the area had to offer. Not only did the pair discover a robust family tree, but they also gained a newfound appreciation for the way food can bring peo- ple together. Brown says they were resolute about keeping Ever Andalo’s menu open to hold influences from all over Italy—Andalo in the Dolomites, the coast and main food regions like Emil- ia-Romagna.

“One thing food-wise that is from the Andalo area is the speck on our charcuterie board,” Brown says. “We slice it fresh to order too. Our bar also brought in grappa which was a mainstay in the coat jacket flasks of some of Jeff’s family members in that area.”

The word “ordinary” doesn’t exist in the couple’s vocabulary, and their ability to assemble a team with a diverse set of talents is truly unmatched. When planning the cocktail menu, Tonidan- del and Brown encouraged Head Mixologist Colleen Hughes to spotlight classic Italian cocktails while taking a bit of creative license. The refreshing limoncello is a menu anchor, as well as the caffe with count Negroni—a smooth, caffeinated sip with Zaya aged rum, Campari, Carpano Antica vermouth, cold brew coffee and vanilla foam.

This carefully curated approach carries over to the restau- rant’s main fare, with a fully homemade selection of pastas, sea- food dishes and more. For those who enjoy turning up the heat: Rolled and cut doppio zero pasta is cooked fresh to order and

topped with beef ragù, Calabrian chilis from Italy and a creamy homemade ricotta (Calabrian Chili Pappardelle). One of Ever Andalo’s seafood highlights à la Executive Chef Cory Owen is the grilled octopus, with fresh tomato, chili oil and sun-dried toma- to vinaigrette. But perhaps the cherry on top for a true Italian experience? The house-made cannoli, with silky vanilla cream and ricotta.

Tonidandel and Brown’s commitment to intentionality through every step of the process—no matter how trivial—has become a common theme for the restaurateurs. Straying from chains or franchising, the couple find fulfillment in dreaming up special, one-of-a-kind spaces.

“These little details feel insignificant to some people,” Brown says. “But as Jeff and I have always adored dining experiences, we’ve come to realize that what we are enjoying goes far beyond the food. It’s about everything else too. It’s how a place makes you feel, how it inspires you, what it makes you dream about or crave to return to.”

And return they do.

“Nowadays we sometimes have to pinch ourselves,” Brown says. “We had a late dinner the other week at Supperland and as we looked around at the full room and the massive orchestration of people, food, ingredients, drinks and vibe, I said to Jeff, ‘How did all of this happen?’ He replied, ‘Baby steps.’ And I think he’s right. If we always look at these huge projects in that way...the baby steps end up culminating into something beautiful and beyond what we could have hoped for.”

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