Chef's Table : Dontatella Arpaia
The Recipe for Success: Passion, Sustainability, and a Big Table for Family
Born into the world of hospitality, you could say Donatella Arpaia’s culinary fate was sealed early on, yet the quest for excellence requires a true pursuit of passion, unabated dedication, and a whole lot of spunk. Heralded as a powerhouse and trailblazer with countless esteemed and accomplished titles, as a chef and restaurateur, cookbook author, and television personality, Donatella certainly has all that is needed and much, much more.
Within her acclaimed gastronomic tapestry, Donatella brings added value to all of her endeavors—a philosophy of heart. Drawing inspiration from her culinary heritage and epic respect for traditions, food, and family, the figure of a greater chef and person emerges as a woman with a passionate pursuit to transcend hospitality beyond the kitchen.
A true culinary ambassador armed with an unyielding spirit of innovation, Donatella is driving a movement in the hospitality world to be a vehicle for education and mentorship, sustainability and ethical practices, and, mostly, to celebrate life. Honoring where she came from and where she is going, Donatella Arpaia, is transforming the power of the hospitality world and is touching many lives, and of course, many hearts, through the language of food and experience, and I think the best is yet to come.
When did you first fall in love with food?
I never knew a time when food was not part of my life. I was practically born in my family’s restaurant, and my crib was next to the dishwashing station.
My love for food was my very first love so I guess it feels like it was always there.
So, what’s your food story? How did you get where you are today?
I grew up in a first-generation immigrant household.
My father and mother came to New York, bringing all their passion for food, family, and traditions, and they opened a restaurant in Long Island, NY.
After my father opened his first restaurant in Manhattan, Lello and later Scarlotti, and even though the restaurant business is where I grew up, my father did not want me to end up there.
My father told me to go out and get a law degree or medical degree, anything I wanted, so I went off to law school, graduated, passed the bar, got a job, and then quit after four months.
Every day, I came home from work miserable. Then one night, my brother, Dino, who owns Cellini (which is in the same place as my father’s first Manhattan restaurant, Lello), told me the hostess did not show up to work, so I went in to work the door, and I was never happier.
I was then on a mission, so I left my job as an attorney and, with a loan from my father, opened Bellini on 52nd Street in NYC. I always had a lot of spunk and worked hard, and soon after, I paid my father back and went on to build a life in hospitality.
What is your first memory of food?
To be honest, I do not have any memories without food. I remember growing up around the holidays, with my mother and all my relatives in the kitchen, making tomato sauce and canning the sauce in August. Every time I think of family, I think of food. I do remember my first bite of Neapolitan pizza pretty clearly…I was only 6 or 7, and I can still remember the flavors.
What does sustainable hospitality mean to you?
The first thing I think of is packaging; it is very important to our communities and our world. Especially in the hospitality world, sustainability and the health of the environment are crucial because we have a big impact on the food ecosystems. Who we buy our food from; our purveyors and vendors, and making sure the products we serve are sustainable and environmentally sound needs to be a priority. My location, NOMA BEACH at Redfish, is on the water, and we are very mindful of keeping our waters clean, everything from recycling and waste to the fish we choose to buy. We have a responsibility to the younger generations, and they, in turn, are making us more accountable and aware.
How do you find work/family balance as a chef?
It’s important to plot, plan, and prioritize, especially family time, which is very important to me. I make sure I am present when I am with my children by creating boundaries and learning to say no sometimes. It’s hard to do, but it makes me a better mother, chef, and person.
Who do you think you are today as a chef?
I am happy to have been exposed to some of the greatest chefs and to continue to evolve and grow. I enjoy mentoring young chefs and talent, and I am grateful every day for the work I do. I am humbled by all of this and have so much gratitude for the business, the people I work with, and my life.
Hey, Chef, What does your table look like?
I have a big concrete table at my lake house in Connecticut. It reminds me of Lake Cuomo, and I love spending time there. My kids help to set the table with my beautiful antipasti board, with Galbani cheeses, meats, and vegetables. There is pasta and sauce and meatballs, wine, and great music. It is full of family and close friends, and we are talking and laughing with no rush in sight. It is what a table should be: a place to live and love.
